Random Ramble No.4 : “Vranica – Maglovita crna planina (The black misty mountain)”

Nakon nekoliko mjeseci ponovo se javila prilika za istraživanjem još neposjećenih dijelova Bosne i Hercegovine. Shvatio sam da mi je ostalo još zvanično 5 općina ili mjesnih zajednica u kojima nisam bio, nakon što ih posjetim zvanično mogu sebi dodjeliti priznanje da sam obišao cijelu domovinu. Nakon toga želim da se nagradim osvajanjem većine njenih vrhova.

Željan odmora pitao sam prijatelja da idemo u Sarajevo. Zbog svojih obaveza nije bio u mogućnosti pa je osim toga predložio da mu dođem u posjetu u njegov rodni kraj, Fojnicu, što se na kraju ispostavila kao još bolja ideja. Već sljedeći dan sam se uputio ka njemu, odlučio sam dati sebi vremena za putovanje do Fojnice i voziti se svim sporednim putevima kroz prirodu, preko planina, prevoja i kroz predivno zelenilo naših šuma. Vodu za putovanje nisam kupovao iako je bilo preko 30°C, znao sam da na putu ima mnogo ledenih prirodnih izvora koji momentalno gase i najtežu žeđ, tako da sam ponio samo jednu praznu flašu.

Trebalo mi je čak 3h i 30min do Fojnice, svakako je i to neka vrsta rekorda, ako bi se mjerilo ko je u historiji ikada sporije došao iz Tešnja u Fojnicu. Kada sam konačno stigao, sreo sam svog prijatelja kojeg nisam vidio tačnu godinu dana i bio je baš onakav kako ga se sjećam – nasmijan i jak ali sa malo većim stomakom, njegov trofej koji je ponio sa master studija iz Češke dok se družio sa pivom i knjigama. Poznat kao moj najveći partner za avanture u prirodi i najveći dialog partner od svih osoba koje sam ikad upoznao, mislim da od tog trenutka kad smo se pozdravili ušutili smo samo onda dok sam spavao. Imali smo toliko toga za ispričati.

Želio sam da obiđemo samo najznačajnije dijelove grada jer nisam imao toliko vremena, želio sam da više vremena provedem u prirodi, šumama i proplancima mjesta iznad kojeg milionima godina stoji kameni gigant okićen svojim zlatnim i srebrenim rudama – planina Vranica.

Od  utisaka iz prvog dana želim da istaknem samo jedno. Citirat ću lokalno stanovništvo i potpisati vjerodostojnost te činjenice iz razloga što sam baš obraćao pažnju na te stvari.

“OVDJE JEDINO HODŽE NE PIJU”

(dok je i za neke od njih upitno)

Prosto nisam mogao da vjerujem kada sam vidio volju i entuzijazam prema piću, te nikad nisam vidio toliko nasmijanih, opuštenih i pozitivnih osoba. Čuo sam i jednu lokalnu pošalicu gdje se priča kako direktor “Sarajevske pivare” planira doći da posjeti Prokos, malo mjesto odakle je moj prijatelj, iz razloga što tamo svaki dan pošalje kamion piva. Kao dokaz ovim mojim riječima prilažem Vam nekoliko slika koje su svakodnevna pojava u Fojnici, kaže mi prijatelj da je ovo 3. put vozaču crvenog golfa da pijan skreće sa puta.

(U periodu u kojem sam boravio u Fojnici, u razgovoru sa lokalnim stanovništvom saznao sam da su je to veče čak 5 osoba sletilo sa ceste vozeći pod dejstvom alkohola, hvala Bogu svi su dobro i kažu da niti jednom od tih 5 nije ni prvi ni posljednji put da se to dešava).

Čuo sam u toku noći kako pada kiša međutim bio sam toliko umoran da nisam bio siguran da li sam zaista bio budan ili sam sanjao. Ujutro kad sam se probudio uvjerio sam se da nije bio san i da se podigla tolika magla koja mi je malo poremetila planove.  Prije doručka prijatelj me pozvao u kraću šetnju koja me toliko izgladnila da sam se kasnije malo stidio njegove mame koliko sam hrane pojeo za doručak. Naravno to je njoj bilo simpatično a ja sam bio kao rupa bez dna.

Tokom šetnje imali smo veselo društvo, zbog njegove razigranosti moj prijatelj se 2 puta podizao sa tla, međutim ja sam bio pošteđen.

Budo

Tradicionalna peć za pravljenje drvenog uglja – nekada su se pravile od gline.

Priznajem –  jeo sam i dok smo šetali ali opet to nije razlog da se opet poslije fino ne doručkuje.

Svuda oko nas su znakovi koje nam govore koliko smo mali i koji govore da je sve prolazno. Čovjek je onaj ko nauči da ih čita.

Kiša kao što sam rekao mi je malo poremetila planove. Stvorila je tako gustu maglu da je na Prokoškom jezeru vidljivost bila u najboljem slučaju 10m. Zadnji put sam jezero vidio prije 15 godina i nažalost bio sam mu na obali, dodirivao vodu ali nisam vidio “gorsko oko” u njegovom najljepšem izdanju. Bio sam ljut kad sam izašao iz auta zbog silne magle, međutim, sve je bilo tako čarobno. Sve je bijelo, zrak je svjež, tišina je bila takva da je let muhe zvučao kao let nekog ratnog aviona. To su bili jedni od rijetkih trenutaka kada smo moj prijatelj i ja šutili i uživali u “glasnoj tišini” koju je Vranica pravila. Svi oni radni dani od 10 i 12 sati, stres i umor iščezli su među sitnim kristalima magle. Zatim sam čuo u daljini predivne zvukove. Stotinu zvona zvonilo je kroz gustu maglu, bila su to zvona svezana oko vratova krava dok su pasle pored jezera. Kao da je Vranica vidjela kako uživamo i počastila nas svojim koncertom zvukova koje samo ona može da priredi kao da želi da nam se oduži zato što je taj dan napravila maglu i što ne možemo da je vidimo.

Shvatio sam da je malo 2 dana za ovo mjesto i ovu planinu. Više mi i nije toliko žao što nisam vidio jezero jer sam uživao u koncertu koji mi je Vranica priredila, već sam se dogovorio sam jaranom da ćemo do kraja sezone osvojiti “Vranicu” i proći ćemo ponovo pored jezera u novoj avanturi.

Sa aspekta turizma, ovaj prostor ima velike potencijale koji se već valorizuju. Vranica i Prokoško jezeru su već odavno u planovima i programima agencija koje voze arapske turiste kroz Bosnu i Hercegovinu. Međutim, glavna zamjerka je profesinalnost lokalnog stanovništva koji po mom mišljenju žele brzo obogatiti uz  minimalna ulaganja. Nadam se da će i svijest o uslužnosti i ugostiteljstvu doći vremenom. Raznovrsnost prirodno-geografskih turističkih motiva je glavni faktor razvoja i ujedno i najveći potencijal ovog prostora. Svakako lokalitet vrijedan da uđe i u naše planove putovanja.

Hvala mom prijatelju Adelu Zuki

ENGLISH VERSION: THE BLACK MISTY MOUNTAIN

After a few months finally there was a chance to explore yet more new parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina. I realized that there were still 5 municipalities or local communities in which I was not officially admitted, after visiting them I can officially admit that I have visited the whole country. After that I want to reward myself by climbing most of Bosnia and Herzegovina mountain peaks, maybe all of them.

I’ve asked my friend to go to Sarajevo that weekend. Because of his obligations he was not able, but then he suggested that I visit him in his hometown, Fojnica, which was in the end even better idea. Next day I was already on the road to him,  I decided to give myself the time to travel to “Fojnica” and drive on all side roads through nature, over the mountains, overhanging and through the beautiful greenery of our forests. I did not buy water for travel even though it was over 30 ° C, I knew there were many cold natural springs on the road that are turning off hardest thirst, so I only had one empty bottle for my trip.

It took me  three and a half hours to Fojnica, certainly even that is some kind of record, if we measure the longest trip from Tesanj to Fojnica that ever happened in history. When I finally arrived, I met my friend who I have not seen exactly for one year and he was just as I remember him – always positive and strong man but now with a little bit bigger belly, his trophy that he took from master studies in Czechoslovakia while he was hanging out with beer and books . Known as my greatest adventure partner for exploring nature and the greatest partner for conversations of all the other people I’ve ever met, I think from the moment we greeted we did not ceased talking. We had so much to tell.

I wanted to visit only the most important parts of the city because I did not have so much time, I wanted to spend more time in nature, forests and ridges of place over which millions of years old giant stands tasseled with its gold and silver – the Vranica mountain.

From all the impressions that I experienced that day of the first day I want to highlight only one. I will quote the local population and sign the credibility of this fact because I pay attention to these things.

“IN THIS TOWN ONLY IMAMS (the muslim priests) DO NOT DRINK”

(While some of them are questionable too)

I could not really believe it when I saw theirs will and enthusiasm for drinking, and I have never seen so many happy, relaxed and positive people. I heard one local story how the director of “Sarajevo Beer factory” is planning to come to visit „Prokos“, a little place from where my friend is from, because he sells a truck full of bier in that town. As proof of these words, I enclose a few pictures that are commonplace in Fojnica, my friend tells me that this is the 3rd time crushing from the road for this red car driver.

I heard the rain falling overnight but I was so tired that I was not sure if I was really awake or I was dreaming. In the morning when I woke up, I realized that it was not a dream and such thick mist raised overnight that slightly spoiled my mini vacation. Before breakfast, my friend invited me to a shorter walk that made me so hungry that later I was ashamed of his moms for amount of food that I have eaten for breakfast. Of course for her it was just funny but I was like a hole without bottom.

During the walk we had a cheerful company, because of its playfulness my friend was twice kicked down on the ground.

The rain as I told slightly spoiled my plans. It created such heavy mist that at „Prokos Lake“the visibility was at best 10m. Last time I saw the lake was 15 years ago and unfortunately I was on the shore now, touching the water but I did not see the “mountain eye” in its most beautiful edition. I was angry when I got out of the car because of the heavy fog, however, it was all so magical. Everything was white, the air was cool, the silence was such that the flight of fly sounded like a flight of a war plane. These were one of the few moments when I and my friend were silent silent and enjoying the “loud silence” that Vranica created. All those my working days of 10 and 12 hours, stress and fatigue have disappeared among the small crystals of fog. Then I heard in the distance the beautiful sounds. A hundred bell rang in the dense fog, those were bells tied around the cervix’s neck as they were eating fresh grass near the lake. It’s like mountain saw how we were enjoying and honored us with its concert of sounds that only she could create. It is like mountain wanted to repay us for the mist which she created that day.

I realized that 2 days are not enough for visiting this place and this mountain. Now at the moment I’m not so sorry that I did not see the lake because I enjoyed the concert that Vranica had prepared for me, but I agreed with the friend that we will conquer “Vranica” by the end of the season and then I will go back to the lake in my new adventure.

From the aspect of tourism, this are has great potentials that are already being valorised. Vranica and Prokoško Lake have long been in the itineraries of travel agencies that serve Arab tourists through Bosnia and Herzegovina. However, the main objection is the professionalism of the local population who, in my opinion, want to enrich rapidly with minimal investments. I hope that the awareness of good service and hospitality will come in time. The diversity of natural-geographic tourism motives is the main factor of development and at the same time the greatest potential of this area. Certainly this town and mountain is worthwhile to enter our travel plans as well.

Special thanks to my friend Adel Zuka for everything that he done for me.